Dominica

February 28

Woke up this morning to see fishermen bringing in their nets and fish just a way beyond our boat.  Fresh fish tonight (cooking on board) or wifi (restaurant, if they have it)?   A cruise ship has arrived this morning as well.

Poncho picked us up prompty at 9 a.m. and we loaded into the bus with Miguel, our tour guide and Johan, our driver.  We were also accompanied by four French people from St. Malo. Drove up steep, windy roads to Middleham Falls which was a 45 minute hike.  Hike is not the word!  Climb! And along rocks, narrow paths, through water.  Hikers only as not much to see except for the waterfall at the end of the trail.  Swimming in the pool at the base of the waterfall was not recommended and no one was doing it.  Park pass was 13.35 EC to get in.  Next we were going to go to the fresh water lake which was another park pass and a huge nothing.  After speaking to Miguel, who was going to take up to Trafalgar Falls and another park pass, we decided to skip as Peter and Dave had already seen and the French people agreed.  Instead we went for a lovely lunch with a beautiful view overlooking a river down in the gorge.  There we saw hummingbirds, finch and flora and fauna.  Lunch was excellent.  After lunch we drove to Miguel’s property that had been in his family for years….there was vegetation, animals and sulphur hot baths.  Interesting the sulphur did not smell as they used bamboo to filter the water.  Lovely!  They also had a mud bath which we did not use.  

Kabrit, Peter and Dave in the hot tubs with hot sulphur water

Stopped at the Alliance Francais which has a bakery and according to the French we were with, the baguettes better than in Martinique.  Bought baguette and three pain au chocolat as no croissants were available. 

Dinner was light, salad, baguette and cheese.

February 27

Wild bird of paradise that Martin brought this morning

Left Portsmouth after a great swim to the beach.  Arrived in Roseau after a motor and a sail.  The winds were forever changing.  Poncho and his side kick Miguel greeted us and took us to our mooring.  No wifi was available so we moved.  Gave him our laundry….wife does it very well….and still no wifi.  He left and said he would be back shortly but actually didn’t get back to us until we were eating diner.

We dinghied in to the dock and walked the town.  Except for the cruise ship area, I felt as if I was in a time warp.  Perhaps this town was the same as it was in the 1700 and 1800.  Busy place and the most posh place was Fort Young. 

We have arranged with Poncho to take a tour of the island, 100 EC per person.  It begins at 9 a.m. tomorrow morning and apparently goes until 4 or 5 p.m.  

 February 26

Indian River

Indian River

Jungle Rose

Fabulous dinner last night of fresh salad, tomatoes and mahi mahi.  Hailed Martin from Providence Tours to take us on a tour of the Indian River.   Martin was delightful and entertaining and rowed all the way up the river.  I thought perhaps we all should have helped him out.  Perhaps then we could all look like him….45 years old in March but I thought he looked like 22.  Lots of flora, fauna and birds.  He mentioned that we should be here Sunday nights as the PAYS have a beach party and it is lots of fun.  Apparently we missed a full moon party last night.

Peter and I swam to shore while Dave had a swim at the boat.  We tried to decide which restaurant was going to have our business.  Either Purple Turtle, Big Poppas or Blue Bay.  We walked into town to the market, I bought some lettuce and another lady had beautiful tomatoes.  I really wanted to buy some but had just bought yesterday and didn’t need them.  These people are so poor that any little bit helps them.

No rain so far as previously reported by those in the know!

February 25

Entering Portsmouth Harbour, Fort Shirley

Portsmouth home and laundry

Portsmouth street

Portsmouth dinghy dock, looking out to harbour

A good breakfast of pain au chocolat which we found out was the same price as the plain croissants.  Into town for a garbage and then headed out.  Nice sail and called up Cobra when we arrived at Portsmouth, Dominica but he seemed to be out for lunch.  Ended with Martin from Providence who helped us out with the pin.  Into town to check in, walked for two miles and paid 14 EC to check in and out.  On the way to the customs office, I stopped and a fisherman was bringing in his catch.  I bought tuna steaks, six of them for 20 EC.  On way back from customs office, stopped again at the fisherman’s catch and he was scaling a mahi mahi.  He had had it hidden in his basket.  Too bad! Next time.  Stopped and bought lettuce which looks excellent and tomatoes for 10 EC, then again for some avocados, five in total for 4 EC.  Long walk balk again and decided to stay on boat for cocktails and hopefully fresh tuna will be excellent!  Dinghy raised and locked tonight.  The PAYS boys do apparently patrol in the evenings for safety here.

Portsmouth is building a new hotel even though very small and funded by the Government of Morocco.  This should certainly help with their tourism.  The town of Portsmouth is poor, even though it does have a medical school with a lot of students from all over coming here.