Saturday, February 16, 2013

Guadeloupe


February 24
Leaving Les Saints, Pain au Sucre
Forgot to mention an incident upon our return from shore yesterday.   I was in the cockpit and noticed the Douane in their dinghy motoring about.  The next thing I knew they were tying up to the Mistress.  I called for Peter, one, two, three times and dah he finally clued in they were coming aboard.  All six of them in their navy uniforms.  I felt as if we were under siege and wondered why they choose us.  All very nice, asked to see boat papers, passports and asked where we had come from, where we had been.  Filled in some papers and asked what we all did for a living.  Finally, after about half an hour later, they left but did leave a mess from their gun holster and shoes on the deck.  An experience for sure!
Dolphins in the bay here today…teasing snorkelers.  Tried hard to get a picture of them but virtually impossible.
Walked over to Pompierre Bay today which is one of the most beautiful beaches in the world.  It is protected from the Atlantic by the Ilet Roche.  Beach itself would need a raking but the vista and the location is really beautiful.  You almost feel as if you are in a lagoon and not Simpsons Bay Lagoon.  Peter and I hiked up to the top of the island where apparently goats used to feed.  We saw none there but the views were really incredible.  It was a lovely day. 
Entrance on right into Pompierre Bay from the Atlantic
Pompierre Bay, taken from the top of Ilet Roche
Need I say there are some more problems.  Never ending it seems on a boat.  This morning the forward head stopped working.  Even though the macerator had been replaced, this time it seems to be the switch.  Nothing could really be done, so it looks as if a new head will be installed….this time non electric which the skipper has been talking about for a while.


February 23...Spent yesterday afternoon walking the town, a bit of shopping and of course, beers for Dave and Peter at the public dock.  Pretty little town but touristy.  Found a hair dresser and made an appointment.  Charge for shampoo, crème rinse, cut, colour is all separate.  Price of 55 Euros does not include styling. 

Last night dinner was at Pieds dans l’eau, Feet in the Water, a restaurant right on the waterfront.  Two cuttlefishes and one coquillel’angostino lobster, which is probably what is running all over the dinghy dock.    Town was deserted when we left the restaurant.

Dave arranged for fresh baguette and croissants to be delivered to the boat this morning so before setting off to the French hairdresser had a delightfull breakfast. Met up with Peter and Dave at the market. No fish today, the seas are too rough.  We walked back to the Tourist Bureau to find the Customs office as it was no longer in the place remembered.  It is now up in the Cyber Café downtown.  Spent some time there checking out and then walked over to the other side of the island, past the cemetery and walked over to the Grande Anse.  It was then lunch time so went to La Toumbana and had the price fix menu for 10 Euros.  Mahi mahi, rice and salad and two scoops of pistachio ice cream.  Pleasant sitting for lunch.  Came back to the boat full and satisfied.  Light dinner tonight!


Grand Anse with view to Dominica


La Toumbana, Dave and the restored chic!
La Toumbana, six of the seven dwarfs are not Happy!
GAS…..P!  Correction to be made.  A very pleasant suggestion was made that any mention of gas should be corrected to diesel….what would some people think.  So rather than searching for the mention of gas I have noted it here.  Gas…diesel, la meme chose!!
Grande Anse, wild woman and friend(s)!

February 22...Swam this morning and took a long shower as Jerome charges 30 Euros for any amount of water.  We figured we may as well empty the water tanks.  Interesting getting water from Jerome.  A pin in the water, hose is attached below, and you let him know when to start pumping the water.  Peter had to dinghy in to shore to pay which was a major feat.  Waves crashing on the shore again made it difficult for him to dinghy back to the boat.  The mooring pins, which the mayor had installed, all 80 of them, are a pain to pick up.  They have a large 10 inch ring at the top of them which one would think would be easy…..not!  After a minor injury, Peter and I decided that he would use the dinghy to pick up the line and I would hand him the bow line. Those pins are heavy as well and almost impossible to pick up.  Dave steered the boat in the right direction and it seemed to work much better.  Lucky there are three of us!

Bourg de Saintes



Bourg des Saintes Harbour


February 21...Off this morning.  Weather seems much calmer.  We were unsure of where exactly we were going.  Pigeon Island anchorage was a choice.  We knew we had to get water and some gas.  We stopped at Anse a la Barque thinking we may overnight in that lovely bay but it was crowded.  We decided to move on to Marina Riviere Sens for gas and hopefully water.  Arriving at Riviere Sens, just south of Basse Terre,  there was no one at the gas dock to help us but amazingly a fine job was done by the three of us.  No crash landing.  The thought was to stay in the marina overnight and then we could get some water.  The marine was very hot and since we were early enough we decided to move on to Iles des Saintes (The Saints).  We decided to give Jerome a call the next day to fill our water tanks.  Arrived just before dusk and took a mooring at Ilet a Cabrit, just off Terre den Haut, one of the lslands of The Saints. 
Southern end of Guadaloupe with a view to The Saints
farming on Guadaloupe, great produce is available
February 20...Well, that was certainly a ride last night. It felt like the entire boat was pulling away from the anchor and we were going to drift back to Montserrat. A lot of clanging, banging and swaying back and forth but luckily we did not meet anyone in the middle of the night. Damage report….snubber broke loose and was easily replaced this morning. Whew!

February 19...Early lunch today so that we could take the bus in to Ste. Rose.  It is only a short ride from Deshaies.  Caught the bus at the church again.  Once at Ste. Rose, we walked down into the older part and then the road along the water.  There are all kinds of restaurants which were pretty full and interesting fishing boats and nets along the shore.  We stopped at the supermarket, Carrefour.  I thought I had died and gone to heaven.  Wonderful produce, all kinds of lettuce, cheeses and dry goods.  Could have spent much longer in there.  Caught the bus back to Deshaies, a different route again but saw some very well kept homes.  There is a resort close to the Grand Anse, I think the name of it is Carib Resort.
Ste. Rose
Ste. Rose harbour
February 18...Took two buses in to Pointe a Pitre, each cost 2.50Euros.  The streets were very busy with stalls and stores and just generally ladies selling underwear on the street.  Walked to tourist bureau to get a map, talked to an Austrian from Columbus, Ohio who said we were the first English speaking people he had met in four days.  We wanted to go to the marina, Port de Plaisance, and the tourist lady assured us that it was a 20 minute walk but said we would prefer to take a bus as we would have to walk through the red light district and the ladies would have bare breasts.  So, of course, we ended up walking but it sure was longer than the time specified and not much to see either!  Had lunch at Pirates of the Carribbean.  I ordered scallops and had this stuff attached to them (research later and it was roe).  Taste was excellent, done with parsley and garlic.  Then caught a bus back to the main square.  All the markets were basically closed at that time so missed out on the shopping.  Back to the bus station and caught another bus, this time direct supposedly and arrived in Deshaies approximately two hours later.  This time it was 4 Euros each.  Baguette, gouda from St. Martin, olives and tomatoes for dinner.
Pointe a Pitre, Covered Market

Pointe a Pitre street view

Pointe a Pitre street


Pirates of the Carribbean


Had a wonderful fish dinner last night...fresh caught and bought from the fisherman at the docks....we think it was a small tuna.  We dinghied over to the beach around the corner from the harbour....big swells so we couldn't beach the dinghy; however, I jumped off and went for a swim.  Lovely place to anchor.....sand bottom but the swells would be too great.  Unfortunate.Tomorrow off to Pointe a Pitre for the long bus ride in.  Looking forward to the adventure.
February 17...Short dinghy ride to the boulangier for pain au chocolat and even though we didn’t need a French stick, I couldn’t resist the warm bread.  Guess what lunch is going to be?  Gouda from St. Martin and bread.  Hmmm can hardly wait.  Plans now are to stay until Thursday.

Peter went up the mast again to get the topping lift but not 100% successful in putting it back in the mast.  Brought it down and redirected it.  So clever!  Next time I’ll have to get a picture of him hanging up there!  He says he'll have to take a camera up so that we now what the view is from the top of the mast......maybe tomorrow, right!

Deshaies, new dinghy dock, looking out into the harbour
February 16
Deshaies, view in to the town at sunset


Had plans to take a bus into Pointe a Pitre but decided we needed to chill after the last two days.  Took some time to check in, bank machine for Euros and then hit an Internet café.  Spent over an hour there catching up on emails, doing the blog, etc.  Decided to come back to the boat for lunch and plan to go in later.  The dinghy ride is short.
Back into town to walk around, check out supermarkets and decided to come back in for dinner later. Deshaies is a quaint little town. The harbor is crowded but pleasant. Unfortunately, the pizza place was full so we ordered and took our pizzas back to the boat.Beautiful evening, no wind and we were able to sit in the cockpit for the first time in many weeks.
Deshaies Street
Deshaies Boulangerie
February 15...Arrived at Deshaises by 4:30 p.m. which is a very crowded anchorage and it took us a while to find a spot in shallow enough water.  After the sail over, we assessed the situation for wreckage, the open and thought to be riped bimini zipper was able to be repaired quickly, the sail tie was recovered again, however, we noticed our nemesis, the ever confounding Dutchman system was again a problem.  The topping lift had gone into the mast.  Finally, someone else besides me won the rummy game….Peter, and hopefully Dave will win some other time.