St. Lucia

March 11...Well, UPS delivers here at noon so will be off then.  Will miss the showers, pool and dinner out but looking forward to getting back on the water.

At 1 p.m. we checked again and the package was there.  Yes!  But now have to wait until customs opens at 1:30 p.m.  All ready to go and set off.  Arrived in Soufriere at 4:30 p.m. and there were no moorings available except for a private one for which we paid 50 EC.  We were inundated with vendors when we arrived.  Garbage pickup, carvings out of red cedar, fish, fruit.  Felt so bad as we didn’t need anything coming from Rodney Bay.  These people are very poor and are trying to make a living and you do have to give them credit for being entrepreneurial.  Perhaps if someone arrives in the morning with something we will be more amenable to purchase something.  Off tomorrow to Wallibalou, St. Vincent. Figure on approximately six hours so will leave here approx. 9 a.m. at the latest. Should be early to bed tonight as the marina atmosphere tired us out.

Souffriere sunset

Souffriere Harbour

Petit Piton

Leaving Souffriere, Petit and Grand Piton

March 10...Very quiet day today. Spent time at the pool. Tomorrow we are off as soon as the card arrives.

Rodney Bay marina pool and view to docks

March 9...Up early this morning at 7 a.m. to go to the market at the marina.  Lovely lettuce, tomatoes, and fresh herbs.  Don’t know what I’m going to do with the rosemary, parsley and basil but will find a use.  Just couldn’t resist.  Could have bought a small organic pot as well but only have one month left and where to put it.  Perhaps something to remember for another time.

Tried to find about about credit card and finally after speaking to Marie on skype and going to the Ocean Club to use Magic Jack, we determined that the card was in St. Lucia but wouldn’t be delivered until Monday.  After much discussion, decided to stay in the marina rather than anchoring out.  We will check out on Monday (won’t have to pay overtime charges) and head out to the Pitons.

March 8...Spent today waiting for Martin to come back; pedicure and a haircut for Peter.  Nice job!  Shopping, filling water tanks and pool side for reading for a bit.  Showering and then taxi to Gros Ilet for “jump up”  We were a bit early but walked around for a bit, seemed pretty tame but then we were early.  Had a beer at Flavours of the Carribbean which looked like a great restaurant but we had decided to experience the “jump up”  and eat on the street.  Found a good vendor and had chicken kabobs, lamb kabob and a fish pastry and then I went back for smoked fish, two times.  The lady really liked me as I was less demanding than some of the other folks so she gave me larger pieces.  Yum.  We left about 9 p.m. which was way too early but were tired of standing around.  Whatever happened to the “party girl”?

March 7

Rodney Bay, Pigeon Island

Rodney Bay, glorious sunset

Gregory, flagman, selling fresh fruit, vegetables

Well, electrician didn’t show yesterday and presently waiting to see if he comes at 8 a.m.  Peter does have the name of someone else he can call.  Lovely dinner last night at BreadBasket.  Excellent chowder and pizza was good as well, service something to be improved upon.   Met up with Peter and Pat Teschner from Scarborough, former builder of homes.

Well my camera finally bit the dust.  We tried gluing the part that was broken but alas, the glue worked way too well and now lens does not want to come out.  Tablet works well but too much effort in transferring the pictures.  Will have to use Peter’s camera and perhaps look for a new one for me.

So electricians have come and I mean electricians!  First there is Phillip who was recommended, then Roger who was to come; Phillip called his alternate, Martin, and said the alternator has to go to the bench.  And how long are we staying here?  Activity, activity, activity!  Dave can hardly get below  to pack.  See I told him he should have packed last night!  One never knows.

Martin worked on the head and Peter took out the alternator with Dave’s help.  Martin then left for lunch and said he would be back with a part around 2 p.m.  Peter and I went for lunch at Star Fish.  Excellent.  I went to the pool while Peter went back to the boat to wait for Martin.  Martin came back with new alternator…diods and something else was shot.  So the rebuilt one that we had rebuilt in Fat Hogs went to alternator heaven.  In the meantime, Martin forgot the part for the head so will be back at 9:30 a.m. tomorrow.  Credit card did not arrive as promised but we did hose down the boat and went for a lovely dinner at Captain Mikes.  Ribs for Peter and tuna for me.

Dave departed today.  Some memories….Dave won at rummy, the tubs at Kabrit Hot Springs in Roseau, Dominica, long walk to the little waterfall, the outstanding fresh water lake (tongue in cheek), great lunches and dinners, of course, baguettes and pain au chocolat, lots of laughs and some minor accidents.

March 6...Early up this morning again as there are lots of things to do.  Firstly, coffee and then before we move to the marina we want to scrub the bottom of the boat to get it looking pristine again.  Lots of scum on the sides of the boat.  Swim, of course for me, since swimming in the marina will be out but they do have a small pool and hopefully I will be able to utilize it to some degree.  Perhaps a visit to the beach in the bay once some of the chores are completed.

Filled up with diesel and quelle surprise.  Peter’s credit card did not work.  Managed to pay for the fuel and then headed into the dock, F32.  Easy as pie, the hands were there to meet us and the slips are nice and wide and all newly done.  Checked in and of course, the card did not work.  Talking to Mastercard they told Peter that his card would only work if a chip machine is used but of course, in these islands they don’t have chip machines yet.  They  are more backward than the French islands. 

Back to the boat for Magic Jack hook up so that the credit card issue could be solved.  Peter again talked to a lovely lady who said another new card (one had been mailed to home address already) could be mailed to Rodney Bay Marina. Problem hopefully solved and we will wait for the card.  Next problem to be solved is the issue of the head and alternator.  Electrician very busy and said he would try to see us at 4 p.m.  Day passed quickly and a short visit to the pool but difficult to swim breast stroke for me as bruising seems to be coming out now.  I figure it takes four to six weeks and two has passed.

 
March 5...Left Martinique early this morning and arrived safely in St. Lucia after an uneventful sail.  Seas were fairly calm.  Anchored in Rodney Bay and still not entirely sure if we are going to hold.  Peter checked the hook, Mistress was put in reverse and nothing seemed to happen. So unless there is a gale force wind tonight, we are safe.
Plan to come into the marina here tomorrow, get dieselled up and then head over to Island Water World to pick up a new head.  Plans will be to install tomorrow and hopefully find an electrician to figure out the alternator.  Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't!
Correction:  Hurricane did not destroy the hotel at Anse Matin.  A labour strike in 2009 which was French wide staring in France, then Gaudaloupe and then Martinique.  Gas stations were closed, only small quantities of groceries were purchased from small shops and affected the tourism big time that year.  At least four hotels moved out of Anse Mitan which used to be a very exclusive place.
Back to the boat now....no flashlight so have to go before it gets dark. 

Martinique

March 4

Bibliotheque Schoelcher,who was a French politician committed to the abolishment of slavery

Cathedrale Saint Louis

Got up early this morning, coffee and a quick dinghy ride to catch the 8:45 ferry into Fort de France.  Cleared in and out of customs in Fort de France, then followed my notes to make sure we hit all the shops I wanted to visit.  Unfortunately, for me, shopping was not very good.  The Gallerie Lafayette was a disappointment.  Some of the brand names could be bought just as easily at home.  Peter went off by himself and then Dave did as well.  We met back at the church and I had found the restaurant Lina which had Internet access and a nice spread.  Lunch here presently and will walk back to the Carrefours to pick up some wine for dinner tonight and then head back to Anse Matin.  On the way, we may stop for some ice cream which I had promised myself and Peter may look at a pair of shoes.Tomorrow off to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia.

March 3

Bay with Fort de France in background, travelling into Anse Matin

View to Fort de France from Anse Matin early this morning on way to ferry

Yeh!  Dave finally won a game of rummy.  Maybe now he will play Shanghai!  Lovely swim to shore again.  Off today to somewhere down the south coast of Martinique.  Trois Ilets ou Anse Marin.  Quelle place?   

Well we ended up at Anse Mitan and found an anchorage not far from the destroyed by hurricane, the giant hotel, Meridien.  Quick lunch and then Peter and I dinghied around to find the dinghy dock.  We decided to have a rest, then go walk around and go for supper.  Did just that, found Internet a problem on shore again, even though we seem to be getting a very weak signal at the boat from Bakoua (hotel).  I walked around and looked through the shops while Peter and Dave had a beer.  No Internet for them

and I found a nice little outdoor restaurant in the Village Creole called Le Corsair (former pirate).  Had pizza which was way too large for me to finish but Dave managed his and Peter managed his calzone as well.  Left and tried the Internet at the Hotel Bakoua but were chased away by the security guard.  The area at night is private but during the day, you can walk the grounds.  Ran into some rude French people who jumped on the floating dinghy dock and we almost landed in the water.  No sorry, no hello, no good night.  Merde.  Plans for tomorrow are to catch an early ferry over to Fort de France, check in so we are legal, visit the tourist bureau and some of the shops and perhaps make our way over to Fort St. Louis.  Looking forward to this!

March 2

Village of St. Pierre

Plans to get to the market early just did not materialize.  Calm last night so had a pretty uninterrupted sleep. Had a swim into the shore, ocean bottom interesting. Went from grass to sand to large rocks which are probably left over from the volcano eruption.  Sand on the beach is almost black, looks dirty and could do with some raking.  People do not realize the value of what they have. Into town to check in but Tourist Bureau not open so it will have to wait, probably until Port de France. Presently catching up on emails, blog, etc. in a lovely Internet café on the second floor open to a view of the water.  Did my market shopping for dinner tonight and more, and presently having a Biere Lorraine which is excellent and a wonderful pastry with a streusel  on top.  It was heated as well!

Back to boat for a light wonderful lunch with all the goodies bought….lettuce, tomato, radish, cucs, salami and brie along with a French baguette.  Then the day just exhausted us so had a nap.  Had a relaxing afternoon then and plan to have tuna, green beans, salad for dinner.  Probably card game if the men will play with me.  They are discouraged.

March 1...Yes, a true pain au chocolat…..lots of chocolat!  Off today to St. Pierre, Martinique.  In the 1902’s it was the Paris of the Carribbean and unfortunately Mt. Pellee erupted and only two people survived.  One in the prison cell and the other on a ship.  The valley is lush and probably the soil is full of nutrients.  Arrived without problems.  Head sail up with motor.  I slept for about three hours….half the trip.  A really deep sleep.

Peter and I dinghied in to check on wifi.  Alas none, electricity was out in the café.  Peter went to 8 a huit for some libation and I bought yogurt.  Walked around a bit and then back to the boat.  Tomorrow is market day.  We will see what is available and plan to do some sightseeing.

St. Pierre, taken from theatre ruins, view to harbour

sky last night from boat....gorgeous colour

St. Pierre, street

View to Mt. Pelee and town, lush farmlands